Getting charged more than you expected for locksmith services is frustrating. The good news is that you have several ways to fight back if you believe the charge was unfair or fraudulent. This guide walks you through your options from the simplest to the most formal, and tells you how to document everything properly along the way.
Step 1: Call the Locksmith Directly
This sounds obvious, but it works more often than you'd expect. Many disputes get resolved at this stage because legitimate businesses don't want chargebacks, bad reviews, or regulatory attention.
Before you escalate anywhere else, call the locksmith company and explain what happened. Be specific:
- "I was quoted $75 on the phone and charged $320. I want an explanation of the $245 difference."
- "The technician drilled my standard lock without trying to pick it first. That was unnecessary."
- "I wasn't given a proper receipt. I need a detailed invoice that explains every charge."
Stay calm but firm. Don't make threats in the first call — give them a chance to make it right. Many locksmiths, even those who overcharged, will offer partial refunds rather than face a credit card dispute or formal complaint.
What to say if they refuse: "I'm going to file a dispute with my credit card company and complaints with the Better Business Bureau and my state attorney general's office. I'd rather resolve this directly. Can we find a fair resolution?"
The mention of formal complaints often gets attention. Most scam operations will refuse — they don't care. But legitimate businesses who made a billing error or whose technician got overzealous often will negotiate.
Documentation for this step:
- Note the date, time, and name of whoever you spoke with
- Keep a record of what was promised (refund amount, timeline)
- Get any agreements in writing via email or text before hanging up
Step 2: File a Credit Card Chargeback
If the locksmith won't resolve the issue directly, your next move is a chargeback through your credit card issuer. This is one of the most effective tools consumers have because it shifts the burden of proof to the merchant.
How credit card chargebacks work
When you file a chargeback, your credit card company reverses the transaction temporarily while investigating. The locksmith's payment processor is notified and must provide evidence that the charge was legitimate. If they can't, the chargeback becomes permanent and you get your money back.
Success rates for service disputes
Chargebacks for locksmith services have decent success rates if you document properly. The industry has a reputation problem, and card issuers know this. If you can show a significant gap between quoted and charged price, or evidence that services were misrepresented, your odds are good.
According to industry data, consumers win chargeback disputes for locksmith services roughly 60 to 70 percent of the time when they provide clear documentation of misrepresentation or excessive pricing.
How to file
Call the number on the back of your card and tell them you want to dispute a charge. They'll ask for:
- The transaction date and amount
- The reason for the dispute
- Supporting documentation
Most issuers also allow online dispute submission through their website or mobile app.
What to say
Be specific and stick to facts:
"I hired a locksmith for a residential lockout. I was quoted $85 on the phone. The technician charged me $380, claiming my standard lock was 'high security' and required special tools. This was false — it's a standard Schlage deadbolt. The price was misrepresented, and I was charged for services that weren't actually necessary."
Or: "The locksmith quoted $65 on the phone. After arrival, they immediately drilled my lock without attempting to pick it, then charged me $420 for 'replacement hardware and labor.' This appears to be intentional overcharging."
Documentation to provide
- The original quote — a note, text, or email showing what you were told
- The final invoice or receipt — photograph it if paper, screenshot if digital
- Photos of the lock — showing it's a standard lock, not high-security
- A written timeline — date, time, what was said, what was done
- Any communications — texts, emails, voicemails with the locksmith
You don't need all of these, but the more you have, the stronger your case.
Timeline
Most chargebacks resolve within 30 to 90 days. The card issuer investigates, the merchant responds, and a decision is made. You may get a temporary credit while the investigation proceeds.
Step 3: Contact Your State Consumer Protection Office
Every state has a consumer protection office, usually under the attorney general. These offices handle complaints about unfair business practices, including locksmith fraud.
How to find your state office
Search online for:
- "[your state] attorney general consumer protection"
- "[your state] consumer protection office"
- "file complaint locksmith [your state]"
Most have online complaint forms. Some have dedicated hotlines.
What to include in your complaint
Your complaint should be factual and specific:
- Business information — company name, phone number, website, any identifying details
- What you requested — residential lockout, car lockout, rekeying, etc.
- What you were quoted — exact amount and how (phone, website, text)
- What you were charged — final amount
- What happened — a chronological account
- Evidence — receipts, quotes, photos, communications
What happens after you file
The process varies by state, but typically:
- Your complaint is logged in a database
- The business is notified and asked to respond
- Some states attempt mediation
- Patterns of complaints trigger investigations
- Egregious cases may result in legal action against the business
State AG offices don't typically get your money back directly, but they can pressure businesses to refund customers. They're also the most effective route for getting repeat offenders shut down.
Why this matters
A single complaint might not move the needle. But ten complaints against the same locksmith will. Your complaint adds to a record that can trigger regulatory action.
Step 4: Small Claims Court
If other methods fail and the amount is significant enough to be worth your time, small claims court is an option. You don't need a lawyer, filing fees are low ($30 to $100 in most states), and the process is designed for consumers.
When it's worth it
Small claims is worth considering when:
- The amount is over $200 (below that, the time investment rarely pays off)
- You can identify the business entity (you have a company name, address, or license number)
- You have clear documentation of misrepresentation
- Other methods have failed
Typical filing fees by state
| State | Filing Fee |
|---|---|
| California | $30 – $75 depending on claim amount |
| Texas | $54 – $124 depending on county |
| Florida | $55 – $300+ depending on county |
| New York | $15 – $20 (NYC) or $25 – $210 (upstate) |
| Illinois | $89 – $379 depending on claim amount |
| Pennsylvania | $54 – $143 depending on claim amount |
| Ohio | $47 – $104 depending on county |
Most states allow claims up to $3,000 to $10,000 in small claims. Check your state's limit.
How to file
- Locate the right court — usually the court in the county where the business is located or where the service was performed
- Get the forms — most courts have them online; some require in-person filing
- Fill out the complaint — describe what happened and what you want (refund amount)
- Pay the filing fee — some courts waive fees for low-income filers
- Serve the defendant — the business must be formally notified; courts explain how
- Show up to court — bring your documentation and tell your story
What to bring to court
- All receipts and invoices
- The original quote
- Photos of the lock (showing it was standard, not high-security)
- Any texts or emails
- A written timeline of events
- Witnesses if anyone else was present
The hearing
Small claims hearings are informal. The judge will ask you to explain what happened. Stick to facts. Show your documentation. Explain why the charge was unfair or fraudulent.
The business may show up to defend themselves — or they may not. If they don't appear, you often win by default.
Collecting if you win
Winning is only half the battle. Collecting the judgment is the other half. If the business refuses to pay, you may need to:
- File a lien against their property
- Garnish their bank account (requires knowing where they bank)
- Use a collection agency
Some states make collection easier than others. Research your state's procedures before filing.
How to Document the Dispute Properly
Good documentation is the difference between winning and losing a dispute. Here's how to do it right.
Start immediately
As soon as you realize something is wrong, start documenting. Don't wait. Memories fade, and evidence disappears.
Create a timeline
Write down everything that happened in order:
- Date and time you called the locksmith
- What you were told on the phone (exact words if you remember)
- Date and time the technician arrived
- What the technician said and did
- Date and time work was completed
- What you were charged
- What you paid and how
Photograph everything
- The lock before and after (if they drilled it)
- The technician's van
- Any ID they showed
- The invoice or receipt
- The lock after the work
Save all communications
Screenshot or save:
- The original ad or website listing
- Phone call logs (date, time, duration)
- Texts with the locksmith
- Emails
- Voicemails
Keep the physical evidence
If they drilled your lock and charged you for a replacement, keep the old lock if possible. It can prove whether drilling was necessary.
Write a summary statement
Create a one-page summary of what happened. This is useful for:
- Credit card disputes
- Complaint forms
- Small claims court
- Talking to lawyers or advisors
Include the key facts, dates, amounts, and what resolution you want.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do I have to dispute a locksmith charge? For credit card chargebacks, typically 60 to 120 days from the transaction date. For small claims court, statutes of limitations vary by state but are usually 2 to 6 years. State consumer complaints can be filed anytime, though sooner is better.
What if I paid with a debit card instead of a credit card? Debit cards have dispute protections too, but they're weaker than credit cards. You can still file a dispute with your bank, but the money has already left your account, so recovery is harder. Act fast — debit card disputes often have shorter time limits.
The locksmith is threatening me. What do I do? Document the threats (save texts, record voicemails if legal in your state) and contact local police. Making threats to collect a debt is illegal under federal law. You can also report threats to your state attorney general.
Can I dispute a charge if I signed the invoice? Yes. Signing an invoice doesn't waive your right to dispute a charge that was misrepresented. If you were pressured to sign, if the price wasn't disclosed before work began, or if the invoice differs from what was quoted, you can still dispute.
What if I can't identify the locksmith company? This is common with scam operations. Check your credit card statement for the merchant name. Search online for the phone number you called. Check Google Maps for the listing you found. If you truly cannot identify them, focus on the credit card chargeback — the card company can sometimes identify the merchant from their payment processor records.
Is it worth suing for $150? Probably not the time investment, but filing complaints (BBB, FTC, state AG) is still worth doing. Those take minutes and help build a record. Small claims only makes sense if the amount is large enough to justify several hours of your time.