Locksmith scams are frustratingly common in the US. The Federal Trade Commission has warned about them. News programs have run undercover investigations. And yet it keeps happening — because the scam works by targeting people in vulnerable moments when they're stressed, rushed, and not thinking carefully.
Once you know the signs, they're actually pretty easy to spot. Here are the seven biggest red flags.
Sign 1: The Price Is Suspiciously Low
The bait in a bait-and-switch scam is always the initial low price.
You search "locksmith near me," call a number, and they quote you $29, $35, or $49 to unlock your house or car. That sounds great — call over, problem solved.
Except it's not real.
A legitimate locksmith in any US city costs $80–$200+ for a residential lockout once you factor in the service call fee and the actual labor. The $29 covers neither. When the locksmith arrives, suddenly there are additional charges: "high-security lock surcharge," "special equipment fee," "after-hours fee," or simply a labor rate that was never mentioned. The final bill is $250–$600.
The real price range for reference:
- Residential lockout: $85–$200 (most US cities)
- Car lockout: $70–$175
- Service call fee alone: $50–$85
If the quote is dramatically below these ranges, you're being set up. Not "maybe" — definitively. Legitimate businesses don't work for $29.
Sign 2: They Arrive in an Unmarked Van or Personal Vehicle
Most legitimate locksmith businesses use marked vehicles — the company name, phone number, and logo on the van or truck. It's branding, and it builds trust with potential customers who see the van in a neighborhood.
Arriving in a completely unmarked vehicle with no company identification is suspicious, especially combined with other red flags. Scam operators specifically use anonymous vehicles because they often operate under many business names and don't want a permanent brand visible to witnesses or cameras.
The nuance: Some legitimate solo operators do use personal vehicles, especially in smaller towns or rural areas. A personal vehicle alone isn't conclusive. But combine it with no business card, no ID, and a suspiciously low original quote — now you have a pattern.
When the tech arrives, look for:
- Vehicle markings (company name, logo, phone number)
- Uniform or branded clothing
- Business card
- The ability to show ID and a license number
A professional should have at least a couple of these.
Sign 3: They Only Accept Cash
Legitimate businesses accept credit cards. Full stop.
A locksmith who only accepts cash is a major red flag. Why?
- Cash transactions leave no paper trail
- There's no card company to dispute a fraudulent charge with
- It signals they don't want records of what they charged you
Scam locksmiths insist on cash specifically because credit card chargebacks are their biggest vulnerability. If you pay by credit card and then dispute a charge that was dramatically more than quoted, the card company often sides with the consumer. Cash makes disputing impossible.
If a locksmith says cash only: Consider it a dealbreaker, or at minimum, demand a written receipt before paying anything.
The one legitimate exception: very small, one-person operations may only take cash due to cost of card processing equipment. But even these should provide a written receipt.
Sign 4: They Want to Drill Immediately Without Trying to Pick
A locksmith who walks up to your door and immediately suggests drilling before even attempting to pick is either incompetent or running a scam.
Here's why this matters: drilling a lock destroys it. Once drilled, you need a replacement. The locksmith happens to have a replacement lock available — often at an inflated price. The total bill goes from $100–$150 (for a lockout) to $300–$600 (lockout + "necessary" drilling + overpriced lock replacement).
For standard residential locks — Kwikset, Schlage consumer deadbolts, most residential hardware — drilling is almost never necessary. A skilled locksmith should be able to pick these in 5–20 minutes.
When drilling is actually legitimate:
- High-security locks (Medeco, Abloy, etc.) that genuinely can't be picked
- A key broken inside the cylinder that can't be extracted
- A severely damaged lock
- After a reasonable attempt to pick has failed
Ask them: "Can you try to pick it first?" If they refuse or claim your standard lock is "unpickable," that's a serious red flag.
Sign 5: The Final Bill Is Dramatically Different From the Quote
This is the core of the bait-and-switch scam.
You were quoted $39 on the phone. The final bill is $347. When you push back, the locksmith has explanations ready:
- "Your lock is a special security grade" (it's a standard Kwikset)
- "We had to use specialized equipment" (they used a standard pick)
- "That was just the service fee, labor is extra" (this was never mentioned)
- "It's after-hours now" (it's 6:15 PM)
Sometimes they add charges literally as they write the invoice, watching to see what you'll accept.
What you can do:
- Refuse to pay more than the quoted amount
- Tell them clearly: "The price we agreed to was $X. That's what I'm paying."
- Pay by credit card so you can dispute if needed
- Take photos of the lock, the invoice, and the technician's ID
- Call 911 if they become threatening or refuse to leave
You legally owe for the service you agreed to, not a number they invent afterward.
Sign 6: No Business Identification or License
A professional locksmith should be able to provide:
- A business card
- The company name (consistently matching what you searched)
- A locksmith license number (in states that require it)
- Some form of personal ID
Scam operators often can't provide any of this clearly because:
- They operate under multiple fake business names
- They have no license (or won't share it because you could verify it's fake)
- They have no real business address
Ask before they come out: "What's the full business name and your license number?" In Texas, California, New York, Illinois, and many other states, you can verify that license number online before they arrive. If they won't give you a license number or the number doesn't check out, cancel.
Sign 7: High-Pressure Tactics
Scam operations depend on not giving you time to think. Once you're stressed and they're at your door, they push for immediate commitment.
Specific pressure tactics to watch for:
- Urgency creation: "I have another call waiting, do you want this or not?"
- Minimizing your concerns: "That's just how it works, everyone charges this" when you push back on the price
- Aggressive stance when you question the bill — raised voice, refusal to leave
- Demanding cash before you can verify anything
- Refusing to give a written receipt
- Refusing to show ID or license when asked
A legitimate locksmith treats customer concerns as normal business. If pushback on price or a request for ID is met with aggression or hostility, that tells you exactly what you're dealing with.
What to Do If You Spot These Signs
If you spot multiple red flags before they arrive: cancel the call and find someone else. You owe nothing to someone who hasn't shown up yet.
If you spot these signs when they arrive:
- Tell them you want a written estimate before any work begins
- Take photos of the technician and their vehicle
- If the quote is dramatically different from the phone quote, push back clearly
- If they're hostile, call 911
If the scam already happened (you paid more than quoted):
- Document everything
- Dispute the overcharged amount with your credit card company
- Report to your state licensing board, the FTC (reportfraud.ftc.gov), and the BBB
- Leave an accurate review on Google and Yelp
Frequently Asked Questions
How do scam locksmiths find customers?
Primarily through Google Ads. They buy ads for "locksmith near me" in hundreds of cities, often under dozens of business names. They maintain fake Google Maps listings with fake addresses and paid-for reviews. When you search in an emergency, they appear at the top.
What's the most common locksmith scam in the US?
The bait-and-switch: very low price quoted by phone, dramatically higher bill after the job. The inflated bill is justified with made-up reasons. It's simple, effective, and hard to fight once you've accepted the service.
Can I cancel a locksmith after they've started work?
You can tell them to stop at any point. You'll owe for the portion of work completed, including the service call fee. You're not obligated to pay for a completed job if the final price is dramatically different from what was agreed — though you may need to dispute it with your card company.
What should I do if a locksmith refuses to leave after I refuse to pay the inflated bill?
This is trespassing. Call 911. Explain that you've had a locksmith come out, the bill is dramatically different from what was quoted, and they're refusing to leave. Police deal with these disputes and can remove someone from your property.
Are online reviews of locksmiths reliable?
With caveats. Real, detailed reviews spanning multiple years from genuine reviewer profiles are reliable. A flood of generic 5-star reviews all posted in the same month is likely fake. Check multiple platforms (Google, Yelp, BBB) and look for the pattern.
Is there a national database of scam locksmith businesses?
Not a comprehensive one. The FTC, BBB, and state attorneys general collect complaints. Searching a business name or phone number in Google along with words like "scam," "fraud," or "complaint" is one practical approach. Community forums like Nextdoor and neighborhood Facebook groups also surface bad actors.