Calling a locksmith when you're locked out or need security work done is stressful — and that stress can make you skip the questions you should be asking. The problem is that once a locksmith starts working, you're in a weaker position if the price isn't what you expected.
These five questions, asked before work begins, protect you from overcharging and ensure you know exactly what you're agreeing to.
Question 1: "What Is the Total Estimated Cost?"
Not "what's the service call fee" — the total estimated cost for the entire job.
Most locksmith pricing has two parts:
- Service/trip fee: The charge just for coming out ($50–$85 in most cities)
- Labor/job fee: The charge for the actual work (unlocking, rekeying, replacing, etc.)
Scam operators advertise only the service fee ($29 to come out!), then add the job fee on top, and sometimes add additional fabricated charges like "special equipment," "high-security lock surcharge," or "late-night service fee" that weren't mentioned.
What to ask: "If I have a standard Kwikset/Schlage deadbolt and I'm locked out, what's the total price I'll pay — all in?"
What a legitimate locksmith says: "Our service call is $X, plus $Y for the lockout. Total should be around $Z. If the lock turns out to be something unusual, I'll let you know before doing anything additional."
What a scam says: "Just $29 to come out and see!" (with no mention of total)
If a locksmith refuses to give you any total estimate over the phone, that's a meaningful warning sign.
Question 2: "Can I Get Your License Number?"
In states that require locksmith licensing, this is non-negotiable.
Why it matters: Licensed locksmiths have passed background checks and are registered with a state agency. If they overcharge you, damage your property, or do substandard work, you can file a complaint with the licensing board. Unlicensed operators have no such accountability.
How to verify it: Write down the number they give you. Most state licensing databases allow you to verify a license in about 60 seconds online. If the license doesn't exist or isn't active, don't let them come out.
States requiring licenses include: California (BSIS), Texas (TX DPS), New York City (DCA), Illinois (IDFPR), New Jersey, Connecticut, and others.
States without locksmith licensing: Arizona, Colorado, Washington, Florida, and others. In these states, ask for ALOA membership instead — the Associated Locksmiths of America (aloa.org) maintains a member directory and requires competency verification.
What a legitimate locksmith says: Gives you the number without hesitation.
What a scam says: Vague response ("Oh we're all licensed"), refusal, or a number that doesn't check out.
Question 3: "Will You Try to Pick the Lock Before Drilling?"
This question does two things: it shows you know something about how locksmithing works, and it establishes your expectation upfront.
For most standard residential locks — Kwikset, Schlage consumer lines, Defiant, and similar — drilling is unnecessary. A skilled locksmith can pick these in 5–15 minutes using picks, bump keys, or decoder tools.
When drilling is legitimate:
- High-security locks that can't be picked (Medeco, Abloy, some Mul-T-Lock configurations)
- A key is broken inside the cylinder
- The lock is severely damaged
- The locksmith has genuinely tried non-destructive methods and failed
When drilling is a red flag:
- The locksmith suggests drilling before even attempting to pick
- The lock is a standard Kwikset or Schlage and the locksmith claims it's "high-security"
- Drilling is proposed because it's "faster" or "easier" — this is their convenience, not yours
Why does it matter? Because drilling destroys the lock. Once drilled, you need a replacement, which costs extra. Unscrupulous locksmiths drill unnecessarily because it generates additional revenue from the replacement lock.
What to say: "I have a standard Kwikset deadbolt. Can you try to pick it before drilling?"
A legitimate locksmith will say yes and do exactly that.
Question 4: "Do You Have Liability Insurance?"
This one is easy to forget but matters if something goes wrong.
Locksmiths work on the security hardware of your home or vehicle. If they damage your door frame, scratch your car door, break a lock that then needs replacement, or do something that compromises your security, their liability insurance is what covers it.
An uninsured locksmith who causes damage leaves you with no good options — you'd have to sue them personally, which is expensive and uncertain.
What to ask: "Do you carry general liability insurance? Do you have proof of that?"
A professional locksmith will say yes and can provide a certificate of insurance if you ask for it. This is standard for any contractor.
Note: This is especially important for high-value security work — installing high-security locks, working on commercial properties, or doing safe work. For a basic lockout, the risk of damage is lower, but it's still worth asking.
Question 5: "If Anything Is Different From What We Discussed, Will You Stop and Get My Approval Before Proceeding?"
This question establishes your expectations about communication and creates an explicit agreement that covers you if things change.
Why it matters: Sometimes a job turns out to be different than expected — the lock is harder to pick than anticipated, there's a broken key inside that wasn't mentioned, or the lock model is unusual. These are legitimate reasons for a price adjustment.
What's NOT legitimate: discovering a "complication" that was never real and inflating the price after the work is done.
What to say: "If anything is different from what we discussed — the price, the approach, whether you need to drill — please stop and let me know before you proceed. I want to approve any changes."
What a legitimate locksmith says: "Of course, that's standard practice."
What a scam says: Reassurance without commitment, or even "Oh don't worry, we'll figure it out after" — which is a setup for an inflated bill.
Getting this verbal agreement on the record (or in a text) is especially useful if a dispute comes up later.
Bonus: Ask for an Itemized Receipt
This isn't a question before they start, but ask for it at the end:
"Can I get an itemized receipt showing the service fee, labor, and any parts?"
A legitimate locksmith will provide one. This receipt is your documentation if you need to dispute anything later, file an insurance claim, or compare against your original quote.
If they only want to give you a total with no breakdown, ask again. A professional has no reason to refuse.
Quick Reference: Before the Locksmith Starts
Print this or screenshot it and keep it accessible:
- ✅ "What's the total estimated cost for this job?"
- ✅ "Can I have your license number?" (then verify it online)
- ✅ "Will you try to pick before drilling?"
- ✅ "Do you carry liability insurance?"
- ✅ "If anything changes, will you stop and get my approval?"
These five questions take less than 3 minutes on the phone. They filter out most scam operators, set clear expectations with legitimate ones, and protect you if anything goes sideways.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the locksmith gets annoyed when I ask these questions?
That tells you something. A professional locksmith fields these questions all day. If they get defensive or evasive when you ask for a license number or a price estimate, that's a reason to be cautious, not a reason to back down.
Is it rude to ask for a license number?
Not at all. In states that require licensing, it's your right as a consumer. Even in states without licensing, asking about professional credentials and insurance is completely normal. Any legitimate business person is used to it.
What if the locksmith says they don't have a license but insists they're legitimate?
In states that require locksmith licenses, operating without one is illegal. In states without licensing requirements, the question becomes whether they have other credentials (ALOA membership, insurance, business registration). Don't skip the verification just because someone seems friendly and professional.
Should I get everything in writing?
Absolutely, if you can. A text message exchange where the locksmith confirms the price before coming out is documentation. A screenshot of a chat, an email, or a written estimate all work. For bigger jobs (installing a full security system, commercial work), always get a written quote.
What if the price changes significantly after they arrive?
This happens with legitimate locksmiths when the situation is genuinely different from what was described — a higher-security lock, a broken key inside, etc. Ask them to explain the change. If the explanation makes sense and the new price is in a fair range, you can choose to proceed or not. You're not obligated to pay a price you didn't agree to.
Does asking these questions actually prevent scams?
Yes, significantly. Most scam locksmith operations move on quickly when a potential customer asks for a license number and a price estimate. The whole model depends on getting to your door before you have time to think. Asking upfront takes away their advantage.